A relatively austere wine, showing its mineral side, with tight tannins and firm structure. But, of course, this being a fine Beaujolais, there is also ripe, exuberant fruit under all this severity. Give it another 6 months to a year.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.