The old vines here do give some concentration. More importantly, they give a great swathe of ripe fruit that is so crisp and refreshing. Lemon and the lightest texture are lifted by intense acidity and a lively, fresh aftertaste. This wine is ready to drink.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.