Aged in wood, and bottled without filtration, this is a smooth, rich wine that has certainly benefited from the extra concentration of old vines. The flavors—red plums, licorice, black fig jelly—are given weight by dryness from wood and from tannins.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.