The magnificent medieval château at Lamarque has seen a remarkable turnaround in its wine fortunes. This 2004 is less successful than the previous vintages, too dry, too dominated by wood for the fruit. But there is power and structure there, so it may well develop.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.