Still very firm and closed, this is textured and rich, with intense mineral and wood flavors that balance the steeliness. It's full bodied, taut and nervy, with a concentrated core. Age for at least four years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.