With too much smoky toast, this gives a hard, extracted feel with licorice rather than fruit. Tannins are dense and hints of juicy fruitiness only appear in the background.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.