Because this wine is still very young, it's tough and dry. While it certainly has weight and a smoky character, it only hints at ripe fruit and will need time to unwind. Don't drink it before 2021.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.