With layers of wood, this is a structured wine, driven as much by tannins as fruit. It will need time for the dark plum fruit flavors to come through—St.-Estèphe is always likely to be firmly textured.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.