92–94. Barrel Sample. At this point in time, the wine is unfocussed. It has weight, a complex structure and attractive acidity, but the fruit is in hiding—it is there but not yet expressive. A wine for cellaring.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.