Château de Tracy 2004 Pouilly-Fumé

There aren't many aristocratic estates in the largely peasant-based culture of Pouilly. But this is one, and it's old, dating back to 1396. The Estutt d'Assay family makes one wine, an estate wine: This 2004 has great elegance, not hugely rich, but with fine, pure fruit flavors that are already well balanced. There's roundness from the terroir of Tract-sur-Loire as well as a streak of fine acidity. Imported by Louis Latour Inc. Roger Voss

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