A great rich waft of wood and peach sets the scene for a powerful, concentrated wine, its flavors of spice, yellow fruits and roasted peanuts enhanced by a slice of toast, butter, the acidity cutting right through everything. If there is a fault, it is the suggestion of heat, which comes from the alcohol.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.