If any rosé can be serious, it's this. It has structure as well as fruit, a sense of purpose, ripe red fruits and tight acidity. It could even age, so wait to drink it until late in summer 2014.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.