Just like this wine has lost its initial red color, so too has its flavor changed. Now maturing fast, it conveys flavors of leather and acidity along with a dry edge that may be a sign of age. It's delicious, but drink the wine now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.