While wood aging is an integral part of fine Bordeaux, with this wine it is just too much. While it is young, the wood, raw and dominant, submerges the fruit to give a wine that is dense, very dry and hard at the edges. It's not likely to ever lose this quality.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.