This is dark, with a dominant wood flavor that covers the potentially ripe fruit. It is full of firm tannins, with a flavor of bitter chocolate. It may be that this wine will always have too much dry wood.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.