Often outshone alongside its stablemate, Lafite, Duhart-Milon seems to be coming into its own. It is rich and polished, dominated by new wood and soft, ripe fruit. The flavors are black currant, more jelly than fruit, but the power is also here, coming with the tannins and the intense, fresh acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.