This is a serious wine, tight and closed up at this stage. Around the dry core, the fruit is structured, not offering richness, but with a good, solid base of black currants. It needs time to soften.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.