This is a smoky, wood-aged wine, with a bitter toast flavor that smothers the fruit. It does have the fruit weight, so that toast flavor will certainly soften. But to judge by the intense wood character, this bottling will likely always have a severe edge.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.