There is plenty of wood, both in aromas and to taste. What is worrying is the dominance of the wood over the relatively light fruit character. There are just hints of Cabernet black currants, but then the wood closes in. It needs 3–4 years to come together.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.