The hot, overweight 2003 vintage has not been kind to this licorice- and dark chocolate-flavored wine. It is dry, firm, while still garishly rich. If you have it, drink it now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.