88–90. Barrel Sample. This wine has a hard edge with a bitter character that comes from extraction. The producer needs to watch the wood because underneath, there is some delicious black fruit. The wine will take time and won't be ready before 2027.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.