Ripe and fleshy, this wine is firm and dry, but has extra-ripe fruit. Perhaps the fruit is too rich, leaving the wine unbalanced. In the future, it will show fewer tannins and more fruit. Corinne and Charles-Henri Gonet of the Gonet Champagne family bought Bacalan with the intent of restructuring the vineyards, some of which had not been planted for 70 years. The first red vintage was 2001; first white vintage was 2014.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.