As so often, the wine is foursquare, tough and dark. It has powerful tannins with the weight of fruit well behind at this stage, structure to the front. It needs several years to come into balance.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.