91-93 Barrel sample. Dark, very tough, this wine certainly lacks charm at this stage, with the fruit completely hidden by tannins. But it will come round, because the weight is there, even if the pleasure isn't at the moment.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.