There is a danger that the otherwise fine wines of Daniel Fournié are becoming excessively alcoholic. That's the feeling here. So although the black fruit is ripe, opulent and packed with tannins, there is a nagging burn and pepper character. A degree less alcohol and this would be a fabulous wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.