88-90 Kirwan has been transformed in the past decade or so. Today, as with this 2003, it produces smooth, rich polished wines, with firm wood but never too much. Acidity completes the balance.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.