90-92 Barrel sample. Spicy new wood opens a wine that is rather stretched, taut. The opulence of Merlot Pomerol is not there, but it has been replaced by a structured wine. When the wood calms down, this will be serious.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.