86–88. Barrel sample. The generous fruit on this wine is so ripe and juicy, it's almost too much. Tannins and a deep, dry core do give the wine some shape, but the fruit shows excessive ripeness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.