La Gaffelière, now under the expert guidance of Saint-Emilion's guru Stéphane Derenoncourt, is producing serious wine. None more so than this firmly closed but powerful and dense 2006. Bitter chocolate and dark tannins come together to form a shell covering the weight of the fruit. It will probably always be firm, but the black currant fruit flavors will come through eventually—maybe in 5–7 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.