86–88. Barrel Sample. This is a juicy wine at first, laced with acidity. There is a green, underripe character as well as dark tannins. It has a tough, tight finish that needs to soften.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.