Smoky and obviously wood-aged, this toasty, spicy wine has extracted black-coffee flavors that mask the black currant fruits. That leaves a wine that seems austere and with a bitter aftertaste. Drink from 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.