93–95. Barrel sample. A gorgeous wine that's very opulent while also structured. It has richness and weight, and is remarkably dry at the core, but with surrounding delicious sweetness. It's likely to be a long-lived wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.