New wood aromas come through strongly in this firm, solid wine. The wood is a prominent element, giving spice and a burnt edge. Under this is ripe fruit character—black currants and berries that need another 3–5 years to show their best.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.