From the same stable as Haut-Brion, La Tour Haut-Brion reveals a fruity, almost frivolous character that makes it immediately charming. But there is no question that the soft, rich, black jelly fruits are the mask for a more concentrated, tannic structure. Give it 5-10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.