This is a wine that needs time. It has been made with firm tannins and some toasty wood over the ripe fruit of 2003, but at this stage, it is more about structure than opulence. That said, though, this is going to be a very fine wine in about five years. It is a powerful expression of the year, and if drunk now, should be decanted.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.