95-97 Lafite is the most powerful of the first growths this year. It is a supremely impressive wine, a black brooding monster. Yet, despite its power, it never suggests anything other than Bordeaux.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.