High toast and burnt wood are initially off-putting. The tannins in the wine are also on the smoky side. However, there is fruit here, offering some balance in this powerful, dry wine, and giving some blackberry juiciness, which gives relief from the intensity of the wood.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.