89–91. Barrel Sample. The richness of this full-bodied wine is masked by the soft texture. It is still unfocussed, giving acidity and dry botrytis character. The weight suggests finer things to come.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.