Very structured, this wood-aged wine is showing more tannin than fruit. Smoky, burnt flavors dominate a wine that is all tannin and dry texture. Only the juicy acidity at the end suggests potential.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.