For Merlot from Pomerol, this wine has a surprising austerity to it. The tannins are initially dominant, with their leather character. But then, the layer of sweet juiciness does shine through, giving freshness and some vibrant flavors. It needs time to knit together though—give it at least four years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.