Heavily toasty wood dominated wine, which makes it one-dimensional. It has enough juicy fruit, although this will need at least six years for it to really makes its presence. Less wood would help the balance.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.