This is dark and firm with a tough, austere character. It has weight, but the bitterness of too-much extraction gives a hard edge. The juiciness at the end doesn't compensate.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.