It is easy to be seduced by the opulence of this wine. But underneath the ripe surface, there is a complex wine, full of tight, structured yellow fruits, spice from wood and acidity bursting to get out. It needs at least another four years for its real grandeur to be apparent.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.