An intense wine, this is certainly full-bodied, but has fruit weight and concentrated power to match. Beautiful yellow stone fruits—apricots, peaches—are super ripe, their richness allied to sweet acidity, pink grapefruit tones and a smooth, almost oily texture. The one downside is the alcoholic burn that shows through, an unfortunate end to an otherwise spectacular wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.