91–93. Barrel sample. This very dry wine shows remarkable chocolate and licorice extraction. It's currently dark, firm, concentrated and solid, but as it develops, it's sure to be a considerable force to be reckoned with.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.