96–98. Barrel Sample. A powerfully dense, impressive wine from a top-performing estate with a solid, foursquare structure. The crisp acidity so much in evidence in this vintage shines through all this richness. Keep the wine for at least 12 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.