Burnt toast aromas don't exactly make this wine attractive. The palate is better because it has fruit weight, but notes of heavily toasted wood and dry tannins dominate for now. It should improve with age, but will always have this element of hardness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.