Chateau Margene 2012 Cask 4 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)

The intriguing nose on this top-end Cabernet from Mike Mooney is deep but restrained, with smoked meats, espresso and juicy blackberries, cherries and olallieberries. The top of the palate is licorice and coffee, then riper blueberry fruit emerges, morphing toward a sage-like upswing on the finish. It's expertly layered and complex, yet approachable. Matt Kettmann

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