92–94. Barrel Sample. You have to wait for the tannins to come through this ripe, opulent wine. It has black fruit notes that shine generously, while the tannins kick in on the finish to lend a dark, dense texture to the close. It is ready for aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.