You can tell the age from the color and the faded mushroom flavors on the palate. It does merit some passing interest as a wine from the very hot 2003 vintage, but that's about all.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.